Chaotic Elegance: Introducing, Magliano
by Ian Peterson·
Founded in 2016 by Italian designer Luca Magliano, his eponymous label Magliano has rapidly garnered the attention of the entire fashion universe. The young brand is widely recognized largely in part for its alternative approach to menswear and ironic optimism surrounding modern masculinity.
It all started after Magliano graduated from high school, when he began studying with architect Barbara Nerozzi - noted as being a big inspiration for the Italian designer, and crediting her for his introduction to the fashion scene. Before tapping into the world of fashion, Magliano took up various positions that had nothing to do with design. He ultimately started his own brand because he “didn’t know what else to do, in the sense that [he] felt there was nothing that represented [his] idea of clothing” (CULTED). It wasn’t until 2017 that he began to treat the brand more of a full-time enterprise than a side project, when he won first place at the prestigious Vogue Italia “Who is on Next?” competition.
His quick ascension in the fashion subculture scene came as no surprise, making a big splash in the somewhat stagnant Italian menswear industry that gained a massive cult following. The brand’s identity is embedded within the gay subculture surrounding Bologna - the designer’s birthplace - in the ‘80s, as well as the traditional social rituals in the Italian Provincia. He describes the Italian provincia as “a totally different anthropological reality from, say, the suburbs. It’s a fascinating social and cultural web of popular rituals, typical of the emotional landscape that is Italy… I want to celebrate the beauty of the elegance of ordinary people.”
The elements that encapsulate the brand’s spirit include a hint of romanticism, a dash of radicalism, and a side of self-mockery (in a humorous way, of course). Such is reflected in each garment produced, yet each seasonal collection takes on a different form through the use of unconventional references and layered research processes. When the coronavirus pandemic forced Magliano into lockdown, he experienced an influx of contradictory emotions that left him restless, directing the designer’s attention to Hippocrates’ theory of the four human temperaments. The ancient Greek physician’s theory describes four different “fluids” (or humors) that influence one’s personality: melancholic, sanguine, phlegmatic, and choleric. Magliano applies this thesis to the ways in which he designs his clothes, specifically through meticulous tailoring techniques diluted with refurbished, handcrafted treatments.
His massive follower base of young creatives are emotionally bonded to the label for many reasons, but largely due to its encouragement of self expression by taking something old to create something new. Put another way, find the confidence to be yourself and do you, no matter what the past says. On the brand’s About page, you’ll see a few specific snippets that speak directly to the overarching theme - including a Frankenstein reference to subtly nod at magic realism. That said, none are more prevalent than the brand’s motto: “Messing with the wardrobe fundamentals.” Magliano and his team use this as a guide for their work; They aren’t here to invent, rather to reinvent something classic by evoking “chaos and, somehow, rage, which is vital” (Magliano told CULTED in an interview).
This idea of playing with traditional norms and rules, and applying it to fashion to create an experience that is both emotional and purposeful is at the core of what Magliano aims to accomplish with each capsule. Consciousness and passion fuel the creative engine to this day, and will continue to do for the foreseeable future. Narrating the stories of rebels and “freaks” directly links to the label's distinctly contemporary vision of menswear, and we couldn’t be more excited to have them be part of the LIKELIHOOD journey.
Explore the latest Magliano arrivals HERE